128 Facts About George Mallory

George Mallory served in the British Army during the First World War and fought at the Somme.

George Mallory's body was discovered and identified 75 years later, on 1 May 1999, by a research expedition that had set out to search for the climbers' remains.

George Mallory's mother was Annie Beridge Leigh-Mallory, the posthumous daughter of the Reverend John Beridge Jebb of Walton, Chesterfield, Derbyshire.

George Mallory had two sisters, Mary Henrietta and Annie Victoria, and a younger brother, Trafford, the World War II Royal Air Force commander.

George Mallory's two sisters, Mary Henrietta and Annie Victoria, were born at Newton Hall.

In 1896, George Mallory was sent to Glengorse boarding school in Eastbourne on the south coast of England after the headmaster of his first preparatory school in West Kirby near Birkenhead died, resulting in its abrupt closure.

George Mallory played soccer for College VI in Winchester's idiosyncratic version of inter-house six-a-side football.

In July 1904, George Mallory was a Winchester Shooting VIII team member, which won the Ashburton Shield at the annual Bisley competition, competing against other public schools.

George Mallory resolved to find some Winchester students and train them as recruits.

In October 1905, at the start of the Michaelmas term, George Mallory entered Magdalene College to study history under his tutor, Arthur Benson, the newly appointed supervisor in history at the college.

At Sayle's house on Trumpington Street, George Mallory met several undergraduates with whom he established enduring friendships; the French painter Jacques Raverat, surgeon, and author Geoffrey Keynes were among them.

George Mallory became good friends with the poet Rupert Brooke and the psychoanalyst James Strachey.

On 12 February 1909, George Mallory met Geoffrey Winthrop Young at the Charles Lamb Dinner in Cambridge and developed a good friendship.

Athletically, George Mallory developed into an accomplished oarsman for his College, Magdalene.

Politically, George Mallory joined the Cambridge University Fabian Society, established in 1906, and acted as college secretary on behalf of Magdalene on the Cambridge University Women's Suffrage Association committee.

The Marlowe Society, in February 1907, was established at Cambridge University; in November of that year, Doctor Faustus, its first production, was staged at the Amateur Dramatic Club Theatre; George Mallory took part as the Pope and one of the Scholars; Geoffrey Keynes, the Evil Angel; Rupert Brooke, Mephistophilis; Justin Brooke, Faustus and Cosmo Gordon, a magician.

Academically, on 26 May 1907, George Mallory sat part one of the history tripos in his examinations at Magdalene, achieving a third class.

George Mallory returned a decisive affirmative and settled in new quarters at Pythagoras House, a short distance from Magdalene College.

The under-librarian, Charles Edward Sayle, announced that the subject for the Members' Prize Essay in 1909 would be James Boswell, the biographer of Samuel Johnson; and George Mallory decided to compete.

Later, with Arthur Benson's encouragement, he suggested that George Mallory submit his essay for publication as a book.

In June 1909, George Mallory received a letter from the headmaster of Winchester College, Dr Hubert Burge, which communicated the possibility of a teaching job opening at Winchester at Easter 1910, in French, German and mathematics.

George Mallory travelled to Winchester and discussed the outlook, but Burge turned him down, explaining that the teaching post required too high a degree of mathematical knowledge for his academic qualifications.

In October 1909, the painter Simon Bussy, whose wife Dorothy was the sister of Lytton and James Strachey, invited George Mallory to spend the winter months with them at their villa in Roquebrune in the Alpes-Maritimes.

George Mallory stayed in Paris for one month, seizing the opportunity to improve his French language and linguistic proficiency by reading, attending the theatre and music hall, attending Sorbonne lectures, and conversing.

George Mallory tried to treat his classes in a friendly way, which puzzled and offended them because of the school tradition of concealed warfare between boys and masters.

In September 1910, at the start of the Michaelmas term, George Mallory began teaching at Charterhouse, one of England's excellent public schools, as an assistant headmaster and took up residence with two colleagues at Nercwys House.

George Mallory's teaching methods relied on infectious enthusiasm and avuncular mannerisms rather than imposing his authority.

George Mallory followed the teaching styles of Robert Lock Graham Irving and Arthur Benson, who sought to educate through mutual respect and trust, getting to know their pupils as individuals and repudiating the authoritarian regimes of most British public schools.

Several of George Mallory's colleagues developed a hostile attitude towards him due to his informal approach to teaching methods, which they considered undermining their attempts to maintain discipline.

George Mallory recommended that his students read literature extensively, write essays on subjects such as hypocrisy, candour and popularity, and he engaged with them in discussions of politics and literature.

George Mallory took them on out-of-school excursions to places of aesthetic scenery and landmarks of architectural importance.

The poet Robert Graves, a student at Charterhouse from 1909 to 1914, said George Mallory was the most exemplary teacher and the first genuine friend he ever had.

George Mallory presented a series of lectures on Italian painting at Charterhouse in the spring of 1914, engaging the students in a "rather philosophical" discussion about Botticelli, Michelangelo, and Raphael.

George Mallory had two siblings, Marjorie and Mildred, and resided with her father and sisters at Westbrook House, an elegant mansion built by their father near Godalming, Surrey.

From George Mallory, invitations were sent to the Turner family at Westbrook to take part in a play reading at Charterhouse, where he, Ruth, and her sisters, Marjorie and Mildred, acted in a garden performance of The Princess.

In March 1914, Thackeray Turner and his three daughters were on a family holiday in Italy, and he invited George Mallory to join them there.

In March 1915, due to Fletcher's objections, George Mallory was denied the opportunity to work with William Arnold-Forster, who ran an anti-contraband department at the Admiralty.

In December 1915, aided by his brother-in-law, Ralph Brooke, an instructor at Woolwich Common, George Mallory was commissioned as a second lieutenant in the Royal Garrison Artillery.

Fletcher's persistence finally relented, granting George Mallory leave, as the initiative coincided with his finding of a teacher who took George Mallory's post at Charterhouse.

In January 1916, George Mallory commenced a training course involving artillery training at Weymouth Camp for subalterns who might prove competent for further training at Lydd Military Training Camp in Kent.

On 1 April 1916, George Mallory journeyed from Weymouth to Lydd for additional training at the School of Siege Artillery at Lydd Camp and received instructions on utilising heavy howitzers.

Some of George Mallory's duties consisted of taking charge of the firing of the howitzers and being positioned at observation posts.

On 24 May 1916, a German shell destroyed the rear of the cottage he shared with Lieutenant Bell; fortunately, George Mallory's room was undamaged.

George Mallory lived in a dugout excavated into the chalk terrain.

On 11 July 1916, just before the beginning of the second phase of the offensive, George Mallory was ordered to the trenches, where he occupied an observation post for three days, aided by two Scottish signallers.

George Mallory's assignment was to register artillery fire on a distant windmill at 8,500 yards, east of Pozieres.

On 29 October 1916, Robert Graves wrote to Eddie Marsh, informing him that George Mallory did not have leave for six months.

On 9 December 1916, aided by the interposition of Eddie Marsh, George Mallory was granted military leave.

George Mallory returned to the front under advisement to use bandages for supporting his ankle, continued to suffer pain, and after re-examining by a doctor informed, it necessitated an operation to further his duty in the British Army.

Invalided out of the armed forces, George Mallory was sent home to England in May 1917 and underwent a surgical operation on his right ankle that month in the Officers' Hospital, Portland Place, London.

George Mallory was sent, under new orders, to Avington Park Camp near Winchester, was transferred from the Siege Battery to a Heavy Battery, and trained at the camp with the Royal Artillery's new generation of sixty-pound heavy artillery guns, which had a range of more than six miles.

In October 1917, George Mallory obtained an exalted military status after being advanced to the rank of lieutenant and commenced a training course for newly promoted officers at Avington Park Camp.

On 8 October 1917, George Mallory was travelling to Avington Park Camp on a motorcycle he had borrowed from a Winchester teacher when he collided with a gatepost at the entrance to the camp and crushed his right foot.

George Mallory fully anticipated being sent back to France but was ordered to undergo a battery commanders' course at the School of Siege Artillery at Lydd Military Training Camp in Kent under his brother-in-law Ralph Brooke, the commanding officer of the course.

On 23 September 1918, after completing a final training course at Newcastle, George Mallory crossed the English Channel to Calais, France, and was reassigned to the 515th Siege Battery, stationed between Arras and the French coast.

George Mallory's commanding officer was Major Gwilym Lloyd George, the second son of British Prime Minister David Lloyd George.

On 10 November 1918, George Mallory was at a casualty clearing station near Cambrai with his friend and compatriot Geoffrey Keynes, a surgical specialist.

George Mallory prepared a draft prospectus for the school consisting of critical points which emphasised its core principles and ideals and, along with Young and Pye, created more in-depth plans.

On 14 June 1920, George Mallory wrote a speculative letter to Gilbert Murray, an activist, the Regius Professor of Greek at Oxford University and secretary of the League of Nations Union, a voluntary organisation established to support the League of Nations.

George Mallory witnessed the body of a young child whom impetuous British troops had slain.

George Mallory returned to London during the early days of January 1921.

On 23 January 1921, George Mallory received written correspondence from John Percy Farrar, secretary of the Alpine Club, its former president and the nascent Mount Everest Committee member.

On 9 February 1921, in Mayfair, London, George Mallory met with Sir Francis Younghusband, chairman of the Mount Everest Committee, John Percy Farrar, a committee member, and Harold Raeburn, the assigned mountaineering leader of the 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition.

In February 1921, George Mallory officially tendered his resignation from his mastership at Charterhouse, changing his previous intended decision of resigning at the end of the summer term.

On 17 March 1921, George Mallory underwent a medical evaluation in Harley Street, London, concerning his designation as a member of the 1921 expedition.

George Mallory was declared unfit, and with Mallory's recommendation, the committee chose Guy Bullock as his replacement.

On 8 April 1921, George Mallory departed from the Port of Tilbury in Essex, England, on board SS Sardinia, and brought the final shipment of expedition supplies.

On 29 October 1921, following the culmination of the 1921 reconnaissance expedition, George Mallory departed from Bombay, India, on board SS Malwa.

On 9 November 1921, Sir Francis Younghusband wrote a letter to George Mallory requesting him to participate in the second expedition to Everest in 1922.

George Mallory expressed that waiting until 1923 was not an alternative option because they could not afford to squander the opportunity that the current benevolence of the Tibetans presented.

On 12 November 1921, the same day Malwa docked in Marseille, George Mallory wrote a letter to Arthur Robert Hinks, deferring his decision to join the 1922 Expedition.

On 16 November 1921, George Mallory wrote a letter to Hinks elucidating his position.

On 10 January 1922, George Mallory delivered his initial public speech in the Queen's Hall and thenceforth journeyed extensively around Britain, filling approximately thirty lecture engagements.

On 26 March 1922, George Mallory's group departed Darjeeling with and under expedition leader General Charles Granville Bruce, arriving in Phari on 6 April 1922 and joined the following day by the remainder of the expedition.

On 5 August 1922, following the cessation of the 1922 expedition, George Mallory departed from India, voyaging by ship, and arrived in England in mid-August 1922.

On 26 January 1923, in Washington, DC, George Mallory delivered two lectures, one in the afternoon and one in the evening, which grossed $1000.

On 4 February 1923, George Mallory gave a lecture at the Broadhurst Theatre, New York, in front of an audience of some 550, filling only half of the 1100 seating capacity in the auditorium, resulting in a loss of money.

EVEREST PARTY; A Swig 27,000 Feet Up 'Cheered Us All Up Wonderfully,' George Mallory Tells Audience, which in effect diverted its coverage of the lecture tour into anti-prohibition propaganda.

George Mallory travelled by train from New York to Canada, where he had lectures scheduled in Toronto and Montreal.

On 31 March 1923, George Mallory departed New York on board Saxonia, destined for England, where she docked in Plymouth in early April 1923.

On 20 April 1923, George Mallory applied for the position and, following a successful interview on 8 May 1923, was appointed on 18 May 1923.

George Mallory immersed himself into his new employment with great zeal, assisted with organising the Golden Jubilee of Cambridge Local Lectures in July 1923 and helped arrange the summer schools during the Long Vacation.

On 18 October 1923, Arthur Robert Hinks wrote to the Reverend David Cranage requesting that George Mallory obtain leave from the university to participate in the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition.

On 24 October 1923, the Lecture Committee at Cambridge, not eschewing the request, unanimously recommended six months' leave at half-pay for George Mallory, pending the formal approval of a comprehensive syndicate meeting.

On 31 October 1923, the lecture syndicate officially authorised George Mallory's leave under the conditions recommended by the Lecture Committee.

On 13 February 1924, George Mallory committed himself to the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition by signing an official agreement with the Mount Everest Committee.

On 12 April 1906, George Mallory, Irving and Leach undertook the last climb of their trip, attaining a successful ascent of Ben Nevis in snow and ice via North-East Buttress, now rated Grade IV.

George Mallory returned to Snowdonia in August 1908, accompanied by his younger brother Trafford.

The ascent of The Slab Climb, allegedly occurred due to George Mallory scaling it to retrieve his pipe, which he had left behind, on a ledge known as Bowling Green.

In September 1912, George Mallory returned to Snowdonia National Park for a climbing trip and again took lodgings at the Snowdon Ranger Inn.

George Mallory's left leg was extensively injured, necessitating amputation at the knee.

On 29 July 1909, after a four-year hiatus, George Mallory departed for the Alps in the company of Young, where they arrived on 31 July 1909 and, on 2 August 1909, were joined by Charles Donald Robertson.

At the beginning of August 1911, George Mallory returned to the Alps with Robert Lock Graham Irving and Harry Edmund Guise Tyndale.

The adverse weather and physical conditions of some of George Mallory's climbing partners hampered their objectives.

One of George Mallory's closest friends and climbing companions, whom he met in Zermatt, Switzerland, on 31 August 1909, was a young woman named Cottie Sanders, who became a novelist using the pseudonym of Ann Bridge.

George Mallory participated in the first historical expedition to Mount Everest in 1921, which was coordinated and subsidised by the Mount Everest Committee and had the express objective of undertaking a detailed reconnaissance of the mountain and its approaches to discover the most accessible route to its summit.

The next day, 25 September 1921, the severe winds had not abated; the porters were at the limits of their physical reserves, and George Mallory made a definitive decision by ending the reconnaissance and expedition.

In 1922, George Mallory returned to the Himalayas as a member of the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition led by Brigadier-General Charles Bruce.

George Mallory, who was leading at the time of this near-catastrophic incident, immediately reacted by forcing the pick of his ice axe into the snow and hitching the climbing rope around the axe's adze.

George Mallory stood in a secure position and held the rope in his right hand above the hitch, pressed downward with his left hand on the axe's shaft, and, using his entire weight, leaned towards the incline, securing the pick of his axe in the snow.

George Mallory commenced his descent to Camp VI, where being a solitary figure, he would await the return of his two climbing partners.

George Mallory participated in the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition, led again, as in 1922, by Brigadier-General Charles Bruce.

George Mallory was close to death and saved his own life by forcibly pressing on his chest with both hands, dislodging the obstruction that came into his mouth and coughing up blood.

That night at Camp IV, George Mallory shared a tent with Norton, who had just returned from his summit attempt with Somervell, and informed Norton that if his summit bid with Somervell had failed, he had planned to make one further attempt with supplemental oxygen.

George Mallory further elucidated that he went down to Camp III and recruited enough porters with Bruce's assistance for another endeavour.

George Mallory chose Irvine as his climbing partner because of the initiative and mechanical expertise he exhibited with the oxygen apparatus.

The message from George Mallory reminded Noel of the locations and the approximate time of where and when to look for him and Irvine during their summit attempt, which they had formerly discussed and organised.

George Mallory erroneously wrote 8:00pm on Noel's note; he meant 8:00a.

George Mallory had two assistant porters, peering through a telescope in turns, who saw nothing; 8:00am arrived and went by without sighting the two mountaineers, and by 10:00a.

George Mallory thought it might have been a mark used by Irvine on some of his equipment, although not verified by visual inspection of such items returned to Irvine's family, some of whom seemed to remember seeing a similar marking.

George Mallory's theory was that the two mountaineers split up soon after Noel Odell had sighted them ascending the Second Step at 12:50p.

George Mallory further surmised that as the exhausted Irvine descended after parting with Mallory shortly after 1:00p.

Holzel added that George Mallory presumably reached the summit in the late afternoon, and during his descent, darkness prevented him from descending the Second Step; left with no alternative, he bivouacked and froze to death overnight.

George Mallory expressed that on 12 October 1979, at 2:12p.

The rope-jerk injuries around George Mallory's torso indicate that he and Irvine were roped to each other when the accident occurred; the exact circumstances surrounding their deaths are unknown.

The five expedition mountaineers buried George Mallory by covering his remains with rocks, and Politz read a Church of England committal ceremony provided by Barry Rogerson, the Anglican Bishop of Bristol.

Politz and Pollard reburied George Mallory's remains by covering him with rocks and repeated the committal ceremony.

The data collected during the 1924 Expedition, together with a manually analysed sea-level pressure map hand-drawn by the Indian Department of Meteorology, were used to show that George Mallory and Irvine's summit attempt on 8 June 1924 occurred during a period when there was a drop in barometric pressure and temperature on Mount Everest which was likely the result of the passage of an upper-level trough.

Harry Edmund Guise Tyndale, one of George Mallory's climbing partners, said of George Mallory:.

George Mallory cut a superb staircase, with inimitable ease and grace and a perfect economy of effort.

George Mallory would set his foot high against any angle of smooth surface, fold his shoulder to his knee, and flow upward and upright again on an impetuous curve.

The climbing up there is so difficult, and I think that George Mallory was a very good climber.

George Mallory turned back, and it was either he or Irvine; as they were descending the Yellow Band, slipped and pulled the other one off; the rope snapped, and then he came to his rest.

George Mallory had left his pipe on a ledge, half-way down one of the Lliwedd precipices, and scrambled back by a shortcut to retrieve it, then up again by the same route.

At Winchester College, where George Mallory was a scholar from 1900 to 1905, there is a memorial to him in the cloister adjacent to the college chapel.

George Mallory was honoured by having a court named after him at his alma mater, Magdalene College, Cambridge, where he was an undergraduate from 1905 to 1908 and a graduate from 1908 to 1909, with an inscribed stone commemorating his death set above the doorway to one of the buildings.

Frances Mallory's sons, Richard and George Millikan, became respected climbers during the 1960s and 1970s.

George Mallory was captured on film by expedition cameraman John Noel, who released his film of the 1924 expedition, The Epic of Everest.