11 Facts About Johnny Dawes

Johnny Dawes was born on 9 May 1964 and is a British rock climber and author, known for his dynamic climbing style and bold traditional climbing routes.

Johnny Dawes is remembered for intimidating traditional climbing routes, in the legacy of Pete Livesey, Ron Fawcett and John Redhead, and less for sport climbing routes, unlike his contemporaries Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon.

Johnny Dawes came to prominence outside of the rock climbing world with his 4 October 1986 ascent of Indian Face, the first E9-graded traditional rock route in Britain, and at the time, considered to be the hardest and most dangerous traditional route in the world.

In 1993, Johnny Dawes was a member of an expedition funded by the Mount Everest Foundation to attempt the first ascent of The Shark's Fin on Meru Peak in Gangotri Himalaya, India; a dropped boot led to a forced descent from 6,000 meters to avoid frostbite.

Johnny Dawes had a uniquely dynamic technique, leaping between very small holds, and for his levels of balance and foot-control that enable him to climb extreme-grade routes without using his hands.

Johnny Dawes's unorthodox climbing style, coupled with his reputation for a keen intellect and an artistic or bohemian bent, made Dawes an enigmatic and mercurial character in British climbing.

Johnny Dawes's approach made it difficult to secure commercial sponsorship, with Dawes saying in a 2019 interview, "I wasn't supported by the climbing industry because I didn't fit the commercial template".

Johnny Dawes is widely considered a legend of British rock climbing, and one of the most influential figures in British rock climbing history.

In 2012, The Guardian called Johnny Dawes a "defining figure" and wrote that: "His climbs were rated among the very hardest in the world, test pieces of both balance and nerve, some with a reputation for terrible danger".

Johnny Dawes was born in 1964 in Birmingham, into a wealthy family, whose parents were part of the 1960s British motor racing scene.

Johnny Dawes's education at the Uppingham School was a difficult one, with Dawes suffering from periods of depression and bullying.