15 Facts About Marty Schmidt

Marty Schmidt attended Castro Valley High School in Castro Valley, California.

Marty Schmidt began climbing as a young boy, mostly in the Sierra Nevada range where he moved after finishing high school in 1978.

At the age of 20, Marty Schmidt joined the United States Air Force and served in the United States Air Force Pararescue unit known as the "PJs".

Marty Schmidt met his first wife Joanne Patti Munisteri in Santa Cruz, California in 1986.

The Marty Schmidt family were sponsored by Ngati Kahungunu and received their New Zealand citizenship in 1994.

Marty Schmidt climbed and guided in the mountains of Europe, South America, Africa and the Himalayas.

Marty Schmidt made his first ascent of Mount Cook in New Zealand in November 1988.

Marty Schmidt summited Kangchenjunga in 2001, and summited Cho Oyu in 2001,2004 and 2009.

Marty Schmidt summitted Ama Dablam and attempted Lhotse in the same season.

Marty Schmidt led two successful expeditions to Mount Everest guiding for the Canada-based company Peak Freaks in 2012 and 2013.

Marty and Denali Schmidt created a new route on Denali in 2011.

All the other teams and climbers turned around except for Marty Schmidt who made the decision to continue on alone with his son, Denali.

Marty Schmidt was a member of the American Alpine Guides and became a member of the New Zealand Alpine guides in 2003.

Peter Hillary noted the loss of Marty Schmidt and remarked on his enthusiasm.

Marty Schmidt's book, Journey of Heart-A Sojourn to K2, was a finalist for the International Book Award for Non-Fiction in 2016.